(Originally posted link.) Latest version (Click "Raw" to install).
Edit: For now, use Tampermonkey for Firefox Quantum.
Notes:
Edit: you might need to specifically enable the script following installation.
This is CSS-based. It is minimally wrapped for Greasemonkey (edit: or Tampermonkey) use but this could easily be removed leaving a CSS file. Instructions in a comment.
This is only intended for the desktop site. I don't know what it would do to the mobile site. Mobile should work now, using e.g. Tampermonkey for Android.
As well as fixing things which are visibly broken, this custom stylesheet is partially influenced by pre-crash styling (drawn from the Wayback Machine) in aspects where I feel the interface never re-achieved its former merit. Aspects which are better post-crash have been retained.
This incorporates the white-text editor fix. There should be no need to install both.
If the site changes so as to break this custom styling, disable/remove it.
Edit: I should probably mention that I have not exhaustively tested the effects of this, but they seem good so far.
Screenshots: